Dura-Skrim Product Selector

Most Dura-Skrim jobs need more than one roll — a clear cover for the containment area, a run of fire-rated film for the enclosure, a couple of white/black rolls for the crawlspace. The Dura-Skrim Product Selector above lets you add each area as its own line, match it to the right Dura-Skrim grade — clear, fire-retardant, or white/black — pick the mil and roll width, set the quantity, and watch it roll up into a single live parts list with current pricing. When the list is complete, add everything to your cart at once.

What Dura-Skrim is and why the grade matters

Dura-Skrim is a string-reinforced polyethylene sheeting. Unlike ordinary plastic sheeting, it sandwiches a high-strength scrim — a grid of polyethylene cords — between two layers of poly film. When the film is punctured or nicked, that scrim surrounds the damage and stops a tear from running, which is exactly what you want on a job site where accidental contact is a given. Both outer layers carry UV inhibitors and thermal stabilizers, so the material holds up to roughly a year of outdoor exposure without going brittle. That combination of tear resistance and UV life is why Dura-Skrim shows up on construction enclosures, abatement projects, vapor barriers, erosion and water containment, equipment covers, and agricultural covers.

The single biggest decision is the grade, because it determines the color, the fire rating, and how tough the film is:

Clear vs. fire-retardant vs. white/black

The part numbers look cryptic but they follow a simple pattern. The number after the "R" is roughly the mil thickness, and the letters describe the film. "CC" is clear; "CCU" is a UV-stabilized clear; "CCF" adds a fire-retardant formulation; and "WBK" is white-on-one-side, black-on-the-other. So an R5CC is a 5 mil clear roll, an R10CCF is a 10 mil fire-retardant clear roll, and an R12WBK is a 12 mil white/black roll. The selector hides all of that — you answer plain questions about your job and it lands on the right part number for you.

Understanding mil thickness

Mil measures the film's thickness — one mil is one-thousandth of an inch — and it is the simplest way to compare how heavy-duty a roll is. A higher mil means a thicker, tougher film that resists tears and punctures and lasts longer under abuse and exposure.

Heavier film costs more and is a little stiffer to handle, so step up in mil when the application demands it rather than by default. For most covers and barriers, 5 to 6 mil does the job.

Roll widths and how much you need

Every Dura-Skrim roll is 100 feet long; what you choose is the width. Widths run from about 6 feet up to 60 feet depending on the grade, so the goal is to pick the width that covers your span with the fewest seams. Measure the area you need to cover, choose the width closest to your span, and add a little for overlap where two panels meet — roughly 6 to 12 inches. For a clean continuous barrier, seam the panels together with Butyl Seam Tape, which you can add right from the selector. If you are covering a large or oddly shaped area and want a second set of eyes on the layout, our team specs orders with contractors every day at (800) 604-5537.

Dura-Skrim as a crawlspace vapor barrier

One of the most common reasons people buy Dura-Skrim is crawlspace encapsulation, and the white/black grades — R6WBK, R8WBK, and R12WBK — are built for it. The reinforcement resists tears as you drag the material across piers and footings and during later foot traffic, the opaque film blocks light, and the heavier mils stand up to long-term ground contact. For under-slab and crawlspace work, choose your mil based on how much traffic and wear the barrier will see, seal the seams and any pipe penetrations with the appropriate tape, and lap the material up the foundation walls. The selector points you straight to the white/black grades when you tell it you are building a vapor barrier.

The grades at a glance

Installation and seaming basics

Good installation is what makes reinforced sheeting actually perform. Roll the material out and let it relax before fastening so it lies flat. Overlap adjacent panels and bond them with butyl seam tape for a continuous barrier; for vapor and gas applications, seal pipe penetrations and transitions as well. On enclosures, fasten the film to the frame or scaffolding at regular intervals to control wind whip and extend the life of the wrap. Outdoors, the UV stabilizers give you roughly a year of service, but inspect periodically and patch any damage promptly so a small nick never becomes a long tear.

Frequently Asked Questions